Irving Mill :: Rustic Country Charm
Irving Mill flaunts rustic country charm just a skip from Union Square’s open-air greenmarket. And what better place to offer a greenmarket-driven Italian and French inspired cuisine? Veteran John Schaefer (former Executive Chef of Gramercy Tavern) has teamed up with the Riva family to bring us a rustic tavern-like destination unlike any other in the area.
The restaurant’s historical draw lies with Washington Irving, the classic author responsible for the infamous Headless Horseman and "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow." The den sits a stone’s throw from the quaint and charming Manhattan row that bears his name and, although since disproved as a myth, the residence that stands on the corner of 17th Street and Irving Place was once thought to have been his home.
Once the medieval sensation known as Candela, the new brighter venue was officially knighted last week. The late October opening was brilliantly timed and planned, complete with engaging décor; the new look and feel of this wide open space, brought to us by former Ralph Lauren designer Scott Hill, has been described as "Old World Clean," and materializes style cues of a cozy Appalachian and early European country fusion.
The 3,000lb millstone lodged in the middle of the room doesn’t provide the most convenient seating arrangement, but it sure does suggest this place knows the worth of a good beer. Irving Mill boasts a 50/50 ratio of draught to bottle and, at about 8 or 9 bottles including a double wheat selection that’ll knock you off your horse, that’s a fair amount of options for any beer enthusiast. The owners were smart to feature a fair number of microbrews, which guarantees to up the stock of this neighborhood watering hole.
Perhaps the most tantalizing introduction of the evening was the Harvest, a rosemary infused vodka creation that combines a dash of lemon juice and almond syrup with pear puree to tickle your palette with Autumnal bliss. And if rosemary doesn’t suit your fancy, just try the fennel.
Highlights from the kitchen include the Grilled Baby Octopus, a rabbit short rib, and Swiss chard Soffrito with Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes and Cauliflower. And at $58 for a 5-course tasting menu (that includes fresh Heart of Palm and roasted Sea Scallop), Irving Mill looks expensive to the eye, but won’t burn a hole in your pocket.
Owner Mario Riva hopes to create a neighborhood destination, which probably explains the spacious Bar Front Tap Room and elevated Lounge that’s walk-in welcome. On press night this area seemed to be the preferred hangout for visiting Benjamin Bratt who, throughout the evening, created quite the stir. (Also present was Crossing Jordan’s Jill Hennessy.) Reservations for the Main Dining Area are strongly suggested, while the 3,000 bottle Wine Cellar features a Private Dining Room perfect for business meetings and parties for up to 40 people.
If you’re wondering what Irving Mill will look and feel like once Spring rolls around, don’t worry. According to Mario, "it will definitely follow the seasons, from design to menu to décor."
For more information, including menus and a photo gallery, go to www.irvingmill.com
